Demolition Derby Rules

Rodeo of the Ozarks
Light Weld Rules 2017
General Rules:
2. Any American make car can run with the following exceptions; No 2003 or newer FoMoCo Cars, No 1970 or older Lincolns, No 1973 or older Imperials or Imperial sub-frames, 4×4’s, ambulances, hearses, trucks, limousines, etc.
3. All drivers must sign the driver’s paperwork or they will not drive in the event.
4. Drivers must wear a seatbelt, and helmet. A Fire Suit Jacket is highly recommended.
5. All Drivers and Crew Members must attend the drivers meeting.
6. No hot rodding in the pits you must keep your vehicle at an idle. Hot Rodding will be the quickest way to be DISQUALIFIED.
7. Drivers are given one minute to make an aggressive hit. You are only given one minute in total, not one minute to get started and one minute to hit.
8. No drivers are allowed alcohol-period. If and Driver is wearing a driver’s band and drinking any form of alcohol- DRIVER WILL BE DISQUALIFIED.
9. Winning Cars will be re-inspected before any prize money is paid out.
10. There is a $250.00 protest fee, You must be a driver in the main event to protest another car or team’s car. Driver must have cash in hand directly after the event in order to protest. If the car is found to be illegal it will be disqualified.
11. Any complaints that a driver has about another car prior to the start of the first heat will need to be addressed in the drivers meeting in specifics. If nothing is said, we don’t want to hear about it after the event.
12. If these rules or a phone call to us does not say you can do it. THEN DON’T. We can’t stress this enough to CALL US FIRST…
13. Judges decisions are Final!!!!
Car Preparation:
1. No Fresh Paint or Undercoating on the frames at all. No buffing or grinding frames or bodies except where welding is specifically allowed in these rules.
2. All cars must be stock, unless modification is stated in the rules.
3. All glass, plastic, chrome, and interior must be removed from car before arriving to the derby.
4. All trailer hitches and braces must be removed.
5. Batteries must be moved to passenger front floorboard. They must be properly secured and covered.
6. You must have a number in Bright colors on each front door and recognition of the car. You cannot use the roof sign to strengthen the car.
7. All Cars must have working brakes when you cross the ramp. If the car is not able to exhibit the ability to stop it will not be inspected.
8. NO welding other than what is mentioned in this set of rules. If your car is found with any weld, other than what is allowed, and you refuse to fix it to the judge’s satisfaction, you and your car or team will not run.
Bumpers are interchangeable. Any automotive bumper and bumper brackets may be used on any car, but no more than one set of bumper brackets may be used. You can weld bumper brackets or towers to the frame. You can weld bumper brackets and shocks to the bumper. You can weld shocks to the shock towers. You can collapse shocks, and you can bolt the shocks to the towers with ½” bolt or less, it must be done vertically- **NO BRACKETS ARE ALLOWED TO EXTEND ANY FURTHER BACK THAN THE FIRST 10 INCHES OF THE FRAME. You must reinforce bumpers on the inside of the bumper. Must be a factory bumper and have a bumper skin on it. No homemade bumpers and do not modify the factory bumper. It must keep the original shape and size.
You may trim bumper ends or fold them around. Welding the bumper skins (chrome to inner liner) is allowed. Weld them solid we do not want them coming off. No welding bumper to the body in any fashion, except on a 71-76 GM Wagon Rear bumper it may be welded to the body if still in factory location. Bumper height not to exceed 24” to the bottom of the bumper to the ground and must be a minimum of 14” from the ground to the bottom of the bumper or frame. Bumpers must be in stock location.
Front and rear bumpers may have 4 loops of wire from radiator support/trunk lid or deck (to sheet metal only do not go around (core support bolts) to bumper (not frame). These cannot be placed in the front of the radiator.
No manufactured bumpers are allowed.
The bumper must be completely in front of the frame rails. No part of the bumper may extend back past the front most part of the frame rails.
*80’s and Newer
– You may pitch, tilt, or tip 80’s and newer style cars in 1 of the 3 following ways only:
1. You may cold pitch, no added metal.
2. You may cut all four flaps and pull the front end down moving the flap ½” and re-weld. DO NOT re-weld any other crush box seams, no added metal.
3. You may pitch at the transmission cross member, since you are already allowed to weld a 5-inch piece of angle there to mount your cross member.
Frame Shortening
You may shorten the front frame on a FoMoCo or GM on the front frame only. You may cut the frame off flush with the front edge of the body mount hole. If it is a weld on the mount leave the remaining portion of the body mount in place. If you remove the body mount completely or relocate it you will not run.
Frame Welding
No re-welding of any factory seams is allowed (except A-arms forward top only and where allowed for tilting the frame).
Rust Repair- Call before fixing any rust on the frame. The rust can be cut out a piece cut exactly to the hole size may be butt welded in.
Frame Shaping
No Frame shaping is allowed. The only thing allowed will be 6” in each direction form center point out of hump.
K-frame cars can fold over one side of front frame rail ears. Not both and weld down with no added metal.
Y-frame (73 and older) Mopars can close in the front frame openings by core support in this way only;. You can weld a ¼” plate top and bottom of frame and can only go 1” past the original opening of the frame. All four plates must have a 1” hole cut in the center of plate before you show up!! If you have questions on this call
Front Suspension
Tie Rods and Ball Joints- Tie rod tubes must remain stock. Do not re-engineer the way the steering components mount to the frame. Only stock car replacement ball joints and tie rod ends are allowed; no pickup or van tie rod ends.
A-Arms -A-arms may be welded or bolted down but may not be reinforced. If welded it may only use up to a 2x4x1/8” thick strap. This strap must weld to the a-frame and cannot extend farther forward or backward than 1” past the widest part of the a-frame. You may put older a-arm brackets on newer style Fords, but do it cleanly. If you convert a-arm mounts the bumper bracket will go off the original style mounting location or the new mount.
Steering Box- May be interchanged but must remain a stock box for a car that is legal in the class you are running. Pitman arms must remain stock or stock replacement.
Idler Arm- Idler arm must remain stock or interchanged for an idler arm for that is off a car that is legal in the class you are running
Hubs- Must remain stock for the spindle you are using no after-market hubs or rotors. Brake calipers must remain stock for the stock spindles.
Spindles- Must be stock for a car that is legal in the class you are running, with no modifications.
Rear Suspension
No coil to leaf conversions!
Leaf springs must be stock and made of stock spring material, with a 1” stagger and no springs can be as long as the main leaf. You can only have a total of 9 leaf springs per side no thinker than 3/8” thick and no wider than 2 ¾” wide. The main leaf must be the top spring in the spring pack and leaf springs must go down form longest to shortest in minimum 1” stagger. You can re-clamp springs, 4clamps per side with only 2 being homemade. Homemade clamps can’t exceed 2x4x1/4”. You can change coil springs to a stiffer spring, you can double the rear springs ( they may be tied together in no more than two spots, do not weld them together), or put spacers in sagging coil springs to get your height, do not raise the suspension any other way except what is listed above. You can bolt, wire, or chain coil springs to rear-end and frame to prevent springs form falling out, do not go through body as this would be another bod mount. You must weld leaf spring mounting brackets to prevent them from becoming unbolted. You can loop chain or wire (1 loop of 3/8” chain or 4 loops if #9 wires) from rear end to frame in 1spot on each side, must go around frame, do not bolt the chain to the frame. We are going to allow you to weld the chain to the side of the frame, for your chains from the frame to the rear end, you can weld one link only to the side of the frame if you choose to weld the chain instead of wrapping it around the frame.
Use rear end of choice, but must be no more than 5 lugs. You can tilt rear end if you wish. Welded or posi-track highly recommended. Back braces are welcome. Back braces only! No top or bottom braces and no axle savers.
Pinion brakes are allowed.
Rear end control arms can be reinforced. They must start from a stock set but can be reinforced. They must attach in stock configuration for the suspension setup you are using. No Hybrid Setups.
*98 and Newer
-Watts-link conversion for Fords. You may convert a Watts-Link to a standard 4 link system in the following way: Use the upper and lower trailing arm brackets off an older Ford. After market brackets are allowed, but no thicker than ¼” and may be attached with max of (5)-1/2 and 2-3/4-bolts each side. No positioning of brackets to strengthen the front down legs of the rear hump, must be mount in the stock location.
-Any watts link brackets not utilized may not be altered to reinforce frame.
Tires no bigger than 16 inches, No split rims, No studded tires. Foam filled or doubled tires are ok-we don’t want any flats!!! Valve stem protectors are ok. Tires may be screwed to rims. Only reinforcement a wheel may have is a weld in wheel center no bigger than 8” in diameter
Motor and Transmission
Frame Cross Member-You are allowed two 4×6 plates on the frame saddle to attach your engine mounts to. Use motor of choice, motor must be in stock location. Slider driver shafts are allowed.
-Skid plates are allowed. They may be one piece from engine to transmission.
-They may not extend past oil pan or transmission pan. Don’t connect to transmission cross member. Must be 1 inch space.
-No bolting or welding the skid plate to the frame.
May have a Distributor Protectors, it must be attached to the engine and transmission only! If you run a DP your dash bar must be 5” from any sheet metal. (firewall, dash, or floor) DP cannot be welded, bolted, or connected to the body, hood, window bars, or frame!
Must have a gap between DP and firewall at the beginning of the show.
Lower Cradles are allowed but must attached to a factory style engine mount, with rubber brushing, attached to frame. The factory engine mounts are the only way of trying the motor down. May have Pulley Protectors. If running a pulley protector the sway bar MUST be removed.
You may run an aftermarket bellhousing.
-Transmission protectors are allowed with the following criteria:
-They may not rise more that 1 inch above the highest point of the bell housing, including the attachment point
-They may not attach or brace to the cross member, frame, or any part of the cage components
-They may be fabricated of tubing or round stock of no grater OD than ¾
-If flat material is used, it can be no thicker than 3/8. These components may not be used in tandem to create a material thanker than either of these measurements.
-Trans blanket is recommended.
-OEM Tran cross member or 2”x2” OD ¼” max replacement, Must be mounted with at least a ¼ space from all trans protector components.
-Cross member may not exceed factory curves (less than 6” bow)
-You may weld or bolt a 3”x3” angle iron to inside frame, 5 inches max to facilitate the mounting of cross member.
-Center mount may not exceed a normal transmission mount bolt area 6 inches max, no additional bracing allowed.
Body Shaping- No full wedge Creasing allowed, No interior seam welding on the body, Do not remove rear speaker deck,
Rust Repair
You can patch rust holes in sheet metal with sheet metal only. Do not cut rust out; weld 2” beyond rust. If your frame is rusted through call for instructions on how to fix the rust hole. DO NOT FIX IT WITHOUT CALLING AND EXPECT US TO ALLOW YOU TO RUN IT!
If you have a restub your frame do so under the front doors but do not support the splice with the cross member. NO’03 and newer rear frames attached to ’02 and older front frames. You may only restub cars with same make and model. GM to GM (no cadillic stubs under non-cadiliac cars), Ford to Ford Mopar to Mopar.
#9 Wire Rules
#9 wire allowed in the window openings but only one per window opening. You may run wire from frame rail underneath back of car, behind rea end with 4 loops of wire or 1 loop of 3/8 chain or cable. This may go around the frame, it may go through a factory frame hole, or you can weld 1-3/8 chain link to the side of the frame to run the wire through, but do not reinforce the frame with the chain link or you will cut it off. This wire may pass through the trunk floor if you choose.
For mounting radiators you may use up to 4-1/2” all thread. This may pass thru the bottom of the core support. This must not pass thru upper core support. It may be attached to a 2”x6” 1/8” flat steel and must be welded to the core support they must be outside the fan. No radiator guards allowed
Body Mounts
Body mount bolts can be replaced with up to ¾” bolts and body may be sucked to the frame. Bolts may extend through body and have up to a 1.5” washer on top, washers must be separate and cannot reinforce the frame. Bolts must be up inside of the frame and be no larger than 3”
Radiator support mounts can be removed, and you can suck the radiator support down solid. Absolutely no body mounts may be moved or added, do not shorten the front of your car and move back past the body mount hole as your car will not run. If you have to build core support spacers you may weld it either to the body or the frame mount, but only one side can be welded. Core Support Spacers cannot exceed 3” square material. The front frame must not be shortened to far that the 1” all thread must pass through the factory stamped hole. The all-thread may only be welded to the side of the frame in this location.
Chrysler K-Member cannot be altered.
Hoods and Front Clips
Hood must have at least a 12” square hole cut out in case of fire. Header holes are sufficient. Any holes in hood may be bolted back together with 3/8” or less bolts and 1.25” diameter washer no more than a total of 6 bolts allowed to pinch the hood sheet metal back together. You may cut multiple holes but DO NOT EXCEED THE 6 BOLT LIMIT.
You are allowed 6 spots to hold the hood on; you must have a minimum of 4 tie down spots. You may have up to 1” all-thread, it may go from the hood to the frame, but must go through the front body mounts, this may be welded to the frame after it passes through the body mount but may not be nutted underneath the body mount if it is welded. All other tie down spots must be sheet metal to sheet metal only, and the hold down bolts cannot exceed 8” in length! All hood bolts must be placed outside the windshield bars. You may have plates for hood tie down, not to exceed 5x5x1/4” square or 6” x ¼” round.